YouTubeNuestro camino en el Denali: La “Orient…
La vía “Orient Express” es sobretodo una línea bonita que corta la cara suroeste del Denali (Mckinley) nosotros solo somos los amantes de esta belleza, de la vida, y disfrutamos al máximo de la manada mientras nos llega el momento de saltar libres al vacío de lo salvaje, a su soledad, el momento de saltar… Into The Wild.
No es una vía de gran dificultad, eso si, se sube por ella escalando, no andando. Es nuestro bautizo en Alaska. No tiene banderines que señalicen el camino, huellas, Rangers, ni estacas u otros sistemas de autoprotección prefijados como cuerdas fijas colocadas por las expediciones comerciales o por los propios Rangers; ayudas que sí encuentras en la vía normal, la West Buttres.
Sea la vía que sea, el Denali no regala nada, como mucho, un parte metereologico bueno…, pero la Orient, además, esta lejos de estas facilidades y relativa “seguridad”, aunque una vez que has alcanzado el “Football Field” uno también puede beneficiarse de las mismas facilidades si el clima ártico se vuelve muy amenazante o se decide por mayor seguridad bajar por la vía normal.Tiene una fina línea de seracs en todo lo alto y desde sus bandas rocosas nos lanzo algunas rocas en el transcurso de nuestra escalada sin consecuencias que lamentar. Es una vía larga, su corredor de hielo y nieve dura esta encajonado entre estirados espolones de roca que suman un recorrido de 1600 metros hasta alcanzar la salida en el llamado “Football Field”, un plateau llano que antecede a la arista que da acceso a la cumbre; el desnivel que se tiene que superar desde el campo 4 (4200m) donde comienza la jornada hasta la cumbre (6194m) es de 2000 metros. 
Quienes frecuenten la Cordillera Blanca de Perú y quieran hacerse una idea de esta vía en el Denali y su recorrido, agreguen a los 900 metros de pared del Artesonraju, 700 metros más de recorrido y trasladenlo todo al clima de Alaska. Lamentablemente un total de 15 escaladores han muerto en esta vía desde el año 1972 y son pocos los que la han intentado luego de estos accidentes, de hecho la mala reputación de esta estética ruta consolido su macabro nombre de “Orient Express” por la muerte de varios japoneses y koreanos que se precipitaron por los mas de 1000 metros del corredor en los primeros intentos a la vía. Muchos de estos accidentes se ocasionan al descender por la misma ruta buscando evitar el mal tiempo que pega en la cumbre y tambien porque al ser tan larga (1600m) uno desiste de poner protecciones intermedias o reuniones de seguridad, ya que en caso de hacerlo demandaría demasiado tiempo completar la vía, horas… en las que uno se expone a un clima cambiante que puede resultar peligroso y a una actividad a gran altura con temperaturas extremas que rapidamente pueden generar congelaciones.
A nosotros recorrer el corredor con la técnica de ensamble nos tomo 16 horas aproximadamente (alcanzar la cumbre de Norteamerica 17 días), un par de ellas anduvimos intentando ubicar el corredor de salida en la parte superior de la vía. Perdimos visibilidad por el temporal de nieve y viento que entraba y hubo que esperar a que aclare algo para escapar por arriba; salvo lo anterior, las condiciones que encontramos en la ruta fueron casi perfectas, nieve muy dura que permitió una progresión sencilla, con mucha seguridad sobre piolets y crampones. Según las estadísticas del Servicio del Parque Nacional Denali desde el año 2003 nadie escalaba esta vía, en esa oportunidad 3 escaladores de una expedición de 8 miembros lo logran, hay que irse al año 1998 para ver otro intento de 5 escaladores que no lo consiguen. Un promedio de 1200 escaladores intentan cada año la vía normal al Denali (Mckinley) la West Buttres y aproximadamente solo el 47% de ellos lograra alcanzar la cumbre. Los primeros en escalar la “Orient Express” en el año 1977 son los canadienses Patrick Morrow y Bernhard Ehmann; nosotros alcanzamos el “Football Field” a las 00:00am del 1 de Junio.
En esencia, una vía bonita. Un ambiente y unas vistas espectaculares, un camino solitario, nuestro por un instante eterno, …un callejón frío, encendido en gritos de alegría al culminar la vía, …y en pocos minutos, un escape a la vida…
Alcanzamos la cumbre de Norteamerica el día 4 de junio, pero esa es otra historia que contar…
June 10th, 2008 at 1:48 pm
Hola Fer, muchísimas felicidades por la ascensión.
June 11th, 2008 at 12:33 am
Eva, moltes gracies y un peton gross per tots en Barna.
June 12th, 2008 at 9:49 pm
FERNANDO!!!! Espero que mi nota te llegue, porque este aparato se me dispara cada dos segundos. No sabes lo orgullosa que me hace sentir el leer sobre todos tus logros!! Ojala que pronto me puedas venir a ver a Cincinnati, en Kentucky (que esta al lado hay varias cosas que te pueden interesar).
A ver si adivinas quien soy!?
Besos, Gaby.
June 13th, 2008 at 10:24 am
Fernando !! Felicidades !!!!!!!!! Para cuando ver las fotos?? Espero hagais un pase en algún lugar, seguro son muy bonitas.
Abrazos y besos, Silvia
June 13th, 2008 at 10:34 pm
Hola Silvia!
Gracies, pues a fines de Julio aterrizare en Barna por unos días, antes de marchar con Banoa. Como siempre me alegrará verte, asi que ya quedaremos, …estuvo conmigo en todo momento, en cada latido. Dale mis recuerdos a Juan, dile que escriba, un beso molt gross
June 14th, 2008 at 1:00 am
Gaby,
Espero que la vida les sonria en Ohio o Kentucky, me encantaria visitarte…, es muy bueno volver a saber de ti, escribeme Cardenas, un beso
June 16th, 2008 at 3:06 pm
felicidades por tu proyecto…ke saves ke es la envidia de mas de uno,,suerte por palomo inma sandra..no kanbies nunca.javi,..agur
June 16th, 2008 at 10:39 pm
Fer, ya sabes que aqui tienes tu casa, asi que cuando quieres venme a ver, que tengo cuarto de huespedes!! y entran dos, asi que puedes venir con tu guest =).
Todo muy bien por aqui, no me puedo quejar. Mi vida dio un giro de 360 desde que deje Lima. Dame tu correo y te escribo!!
Muchos besos, y cuidate!!
G
June 19th, 2008 at 4:28 pm
Hola Fernando!!!
Esto es toda una revelación. No sabía qué había sido de tu vida hasta hace poco que alguien habló de ti y me comentó que habías salido en alguna publicación sobre la escalada de montañas. Te busqué en Google y aquí estoy fascinada de ver todo lo que has hecho!! Te felicito, especialmente por tener las agallas de haber seguido tu corazón y hacer lo que te hace feliz. Me da muchísimo gusto saber que estás muy bien. Un beso grande. Escríbeme!!! Monica
April 18th, 2009 at 11:35 am
Hi, Danke für Deinen Beitrag “Desafio Apus » Nuestro camino en el Denali: La “Orient…”! Schreib weiter so…! Gefällt mir sehr gut!
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